Category Archives: 杭州楼凤

From Dolce&Gabbana to Jil Sander, digital world influences menswear for next spring and summer

MILAN – There’s no doubt that the digital world is on the minds’ of designers showing their menswear collections for next spring and summer.

On opening day Saturday, Dolce and Gabbana showed off their penchant for social networking. Jil Sander turned a traveller’s money pouch into a colorful iPad holder. And Burberry pushed back against the rise of digitalization opting to explore the world of handcraftsmanship.

Colours are muted, earthy tones, or black and white.



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The forward-looking Dolce and Gabbana duo have caught on to social networking, on and off the runway.

One of the first to have live coverage of their shows over the Internet, and to beam blogger comments onto a screen above the runway, the designers have taken the net one step further, making it the inspiration for their latest menswear collection.

In black or white or a combination of both, the spring-summer 2012 collection presented Saturday included all kinds of connecting fabric from the mosquito net, to the fishing net to the wide netting of a soccer goal post.

According to the designers, the idea was to update their sartorial roots, and involve the present generation in their fashion story.

“We’re in the mood to experiment, to rework tailoring, making it modern and innovative,” Domenico Dolce said at a breakfast get-together with reporters before the show.

The result is almost minimalist, a real transformation for the duo known for their flamboyant sexy clothes.

A perfectly tailored jacket devoid of lapel paired with a pristine white shirt and a pair of boxer shorts worn with city shoes but no socks is the basic silhouette.

The netting motif is used for all types of fabric from leather to silk, and comes in such diverse styles as a suit, a pair of pants or a sweater.

For the grand finale, the designers sent 60 young models, all in white netted T-shirts and matching Bermudas, down the stoney white runway of their downtown Milan theatre.



There’s an inherent message in Burberry Prorsum’s menswear collection for next spring and summer. Slow down.

Designer Christopher Bailey isn’t trying to hit anyone over the head with the thought. It’s more by example.

Bailey has put craftsmanship at the heart of the collection – and not the kind of crafts normally associated with men’s clothing. There’s crocheting, stitching, embroidery and handblock prints.

“I wanted to celebrate the idea of craftsmanship. I love the whole digitalization of the world. But I don’t think one has to be at the expense of the other,” Bailey said backstage after Saturday’s preview.

From the exercise of crafts, emerged an array of ethnic references, which Bailey said was a natural part of the process. “I think just the idea of making things by hand immediately becomes ethnic,” he said.

Geometric shapes around the neckline were suggestive of traditional Native American dress. Block prints gave a textured look to tops and sweaters, with pebbling giving way to bold shapes. Circular patterns on T-shirts suggest ancient art.

Burberry’s native Scotland, too, had its due. Most of the outfits were topped with a hand-crocheted raffia golfing hat, complete with a pompon. Shoes were cork soled-moccasins or easy loafers at times contrasted with woven tapestry.

Colours tended toward the earthy, with flashes of garnet, beets or bright indigo.

The clothing was easy to wear, and pack, perhaps in a Burberry braided leather tote. Loose, oversized parkas with crocheted, detachable collars could be worn over light swim trunks. A sturdy fishermen’s knit sweater jacket with side pockets twins effortlessly with a pair of trousers.

“I wanted it to feel easy and not contrived,” Bailey said. “I wanted it to feel designed as well.”



Raf Simons for Jil Sander likes to wow his fashion followers.

Last season, he threw the label’s minimalist trademark to the wind, bursting out in colours brighter than a box of crayons. His latest menswear collection shown Saturday for next spring and summer is so simple and colorless that it makes minimal look complicated.

Pale-faced boys with shiny gelled hair plastered to their foreheads walked down the runway in high-waisted trousers paired with black shirts or pleated blue Bermuda shorts twinned with a crotched sweater in melange wool. Shorts were worn with thick-soled black shoes and black socks.

For the outdoorsy guy, Simons offered a series of transparent plastic raincoats, which, were it not for the exquisite workmanship – one was cut like a blazer – were reminiscent of those sold at football games.

As per the show notes, the collection reads like a travelogue of the past 50 years of fashion, from the popularity of plastic to the high-waisted pants to the crocheted sweaters, army boots, utility jackets and shiny lacquered overcoats, all in streamlined styles.

Most innovative were the yesteryear money bags worn around the neck, turned into iPad carriers. The contemporary accessory came in bright shades, the sole touch of colour in the collection.

According to Simons, the idea was to bring fashion up to date without relinquishing the styles of the past. By cutting with an edge and using tecno fabrics, it was easy for the designer to prove his point.



From cool colours to tailored cuts, Zegna’s styles for the next warm weather season is classic. Khakis are paired with suede coats and grey T-shirts – with just a touch of Bohemian in a narrow scarf. Bermuda shorts are worn with a jacket and printed button-down shirt, with a pair of thick strapped sandals.

Colours were muted Mediterranean shades of sand, beige and brown, with touches of light green and pink.

Slicked back hair and cool sunglasses finish the look.


Colleen Barry contributed to this report.

US Supreme Court declines to hear appeal of child sex convictions by evangelist Tony Alamo

An attorney for an evangelist convicted of taking young girls across state lines for sex said Saturday that he will continue working to get Tony Alamo’s sentence reduced or his conviction overturned despite the refusal by the U.S. Supreme Court to hear an appeal.

Alamo, who was convicted in 2009 of taking five girls he had married across state lines for sex, was sentenced to 175 years in federal prison and ordered to pay each victim $500,000 and was fined $250,000.

The 8th U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals denied his appeal earlier this year and defence attorney John Wesley Hall appealed that ruling to the Supreme Court.

The court’s refusal to hear the case upholds the lower court ruling, according to U.S. Attorney Connor Eldridge.

The high court’s decision not to hear the case was made Monday, according to its website. Hall said he learned of the court’s decision, first reported by the Texarkana Gazette, in a letter he received Thursday.

Hall said Saturday that the high court has said that its denial to hear any case is not a reflection of the court’s view of the merits of the case.

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“You can file a post-conviction petition, to attack the conviction on some denial of rights during the process. Generally, it falls to ineffective counsel at trial,” said Hall, who did not represent Alamo during the 2009 trial.

Hall said he has up to a year to submit a filing that would be made in U.S. District Court for the Western District of Arkansas in Texarkana, where the trial was held.

Hall said he has not spoken to Alamo, who was born Bernie Lazar Hoffman.

Eldridge said Saturday that he is as pleased as he was when the jury returned with a guilty verdict.

“Of course, our office feels there is no legal or factual basis to overturn the jury verdict,” Eldridge said. “The jury heard the testimony in this case and found Mr. Alamo guilty.

“As we said all along, Mr. Alamo’s conduct took a terrible tragic toll on the lives of his victims. At the end of the day he was certainly held accountable by the jury’s verdict.”

Eldridge said his office is also working to collect the money that Alamo was ordered to pay the victims and the fine.


MILAN – There’s an inherent message in Burberry Prorsum’s menswear collection for next spring and summer. Slow down.

Designer Christopher Bailey isn’t trying to hit anyone over the head with the thought. It’s more by example.

CHICAGO – Medicare crises, looming doctor shortages, more patients without health insurance. And that doesn’t even count the big changes coming from a revamped health care system.

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It’s a troubling time for doctors as they gather for the annual American Medical Association meeting.

PHILADELPHIA – Martha Stewart’s media aspirations just got bigger: Meet Martha Stewart, comic-book heroine.

The woman who created her own media empire – television, magazines and more – is getting a biographical treatment in her own comic book next month.

ASCOT, England – Christina Osborne has a system for winning at Royal Ascot, the five-day horse racing event that is one of the highlights of England’s glittering if brief summer social season.

The American in London doesn’t bother with the odds, the bookies or the data-packed Racing Post. She just picks the horses with the cutest names.

TORONTO – Lots of rain in many parts of the country means that grass is growing like, well, a weed, and some Canadians may already be getting their fill of cutting it. But that doesn’t mean lawn mower operators should be lax when it comes to safety, which is still essential to help prevent injury.

Lawn mower accidents can cause serious injuries to legs, arms, fingers, toes or other body parts. Between 1990 and 2006, a total of 1,161 patients visited Canadian hospitals for lawn mower-related injuries, according to Health & Safety Watch.

VIDALIA, Ga. – They’ve started fistfights and court battles, been romanticized in country songs and counterfeited by bootleggers. Their trademark sweetness has made them a coveted ingredient in recipes from salads and relishes to cookies and muffins.

If a museum dedicated to onions sounds rooted in folly, the history behind the famous Vidalia onion can likely hold its own with other veggie shrines such as the Idaho Potato Museum, the Red River Valley Sugarbeet Museum in Minnesota and the tiny Carrot Museum tucked in a Rhode Island bed-and-breakfast.

OTTAWA – Health Minister Leona Aglukkaq is confirming that she intends to further restrict the way medical marijuana is grown.

She wants to take individual growers and Health Canada out of the business of producing the drug, and instead grant licences only to commercial operations.

OTTAWA – Health Canada is reviewing the status of the diabetes drug pioglitazone after studies suggested the medication may increase the risk of bladder cancer.

Pioglitazone, sold in Canada under the brand name Actos as well as in generic forms, is used alone or in combination with other diabetes drugs to control blood sugar levels when diet and exercise have failed.

Nothing says summer like ice cream and these walnut ice-cream bonbons are a perfect treat that is sure to make kids and adults alike smile.

Lollipop sticks can be purchased at bulk stores.

Next time you arrive home from work feeling famished, this Thai tuna and quinoa dish can be ready in a snap.

Quinoa Thai Tuna

Devilled eggs are a classic accompaniment to summer picnics and barbecue. But they generally are loaded with fat and calories from the egg yolks and mayonnaise.

We set out to remake the filling to be flavourful, yet pack significantly less guilt. Egg yolks do have great nutritional value; the majority of an egg’s vitamins and minerals are actually found in the yolk. But along with those nutrients are plenty of fat and cholesterol.

ATLANTA – The gap in cancer death rates between college graduates and those who only went to high school is widening, the American Cancer Society reported Friday.

Among men, the least educated died of cancer at rates more than 2 1/2 times that of men with college degrees, the latest data show. In the early 1990s, they died at two times the rate of most-educated men.

ATLANTA – A new study shows one in four high school studentsdrink soda every day -a sign fewer teens are downing the sugary drinks.

The study also found teens drink water, milk and fruit juices most often – a pleasant surprise, because researchers weren’t certain that was the case.

OTTAWA – The federal government is poised to tighten the rules on medical marijuana so that only licensed private operators are allowed to grow it, The Canadian Press has learned.

Sources say Health Minister Leona Aglukkaq wants to take individuals and Health Canada out of the business of growing pot.

Yes, indeedy, that guy in the Porsche or other jazzy, high-priced set of wheels is definitely an eye-catcher. But any woman seeking a long-term relationship should let this dude keep on driving, no matter how tempting his ride makes him seem.

That’s because such flamboyant spending seems to be driven by the desire to have no-strings-attached romantic flings – not marriage or other committed partnerships, a series of four studies by U.S. researchers has concluded.

WACCABUC, N.Y. – “Try it. Go ahead, stick your finger in!”

The dollop of spicy hot-pepper paste is hard to turn down, coming as it does from the blender of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, one of the best-known chefs in the world, not to mention the owner of 31 restaurants and the man known for basically revolutionizing fine dining in New York.

NEW YORK, N.Y. – The resort season is not a time for fashion to take a vacation. Resort collections, which hit stores during the all-important Christmas holiday shopping season, are a growing part of designer businesses as consumers move toward styles they can wear year-round.

The idea that people fully switch their closets between seasons is outdated, agrees Ken Downing, senior vice-president and fashion director for retailer Neiman Marcus. Shoppers want clothes they can wear the day they buy them, he says, and resort wear typically meets that demand.

OTTAWA – Stroke victims in Canada don’t get to hospitals quickly enough – and even when they do they can still wait hours for treatment, says a major study released Thursday.

The report by the Canadian Stroke Network suggests neither victims nor hospital staffs treat strokes as serious medical emergencies.

TORONTO – Almost 40 per cent of teens who answered a questionnaire about their sexual knowledge said the Internet is more useful than parents in providing this kind of information.

And almost one-quarter of respondents rated the Internet higher than their high school sexual education classes.

The goal was a simple chicken casserole that had the rich, satisfying flavour of a lasagna.

Actually, that’s a lie. The goal was a chicken roulade – a dish in which chicken breasts are pounded flat, then slathered or layered with some sort of filling, then rolled into a log and roasted or braised.

Federal Liberals delay leadership vote up to two years

VANCOUVER – Shattered Liberals will wait up to two years to choose a new leader, hoping the delay will give them a fighting chance against rival parties bent on wiping them off Canada’s federal political map.

Some 2,000 delegates to a special “virtual convention” voted Saturday to postpone a leadership vote until sometime between March 1 and June 30, 2013.

That’s an even greater delay than proposed by party brass, who had wanted 18 to 22 months to rebuild before choosing a permanent replacement for Michael Ignatieff.

Ignatieff resigned after leading the self-styled “natural governing party” to its worst defeat in history in the May 2 election. The Liberals were reduced to a third party rump with only 34 MPs; Ignatieff lost his own seat.

Toronto MP Bob Rae was named interim leader last month and will continue to hold down the fort until a permanent successor is chosen.

In a speech at the start of the teleconference convention, which was streamed live on the Liberal party’s website, Rae said both Stephen Harper’s Conservatives and Jack Layton’s NDP would like to “destroy the Liberal party” for good, leaving a polarized choice between parties of the right and left.

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Liberals, he said, have to fight back by rebuilding the party, root and branch, and that will take time. While he did not express a preference for any precise date, Rae urged delegates to defer a leadership vote and give the party time pull itself up off the mat.

“We need to take the time to make the right choices and to make those important strides on fundraising, organization and policy.”

Rae added that rebuilding “is not just a name for doing whatever we normally do between elections.

“Something different happened on May 2. This has put us in a different place, we need to do things differently this time.”

Delegates were presented with a number of options, both longer and shorter than the 18-22 month delay proposed by party brass. In the end, they picked the option that provided for the longest delay.

They were persuaded in that choice by former leader Stephane Dion, who reminded delegates of the hatchet jobs done on him and Ignatieff by relentless Tory attack ads. Liberals, he argued, must not choose a new leader until they’ve amassed the money and organization needed to fight back against the inevitable Tory onslaught.

“The defeat has been very severe. The party has a monumental task to do. We should do it step by step,” Dion said in a later interview, adding that “the only good news of this disastrous (election) result” is that Liberals have plenty of time to pull themselves back together.

If Liberals choose a leader before undertaking any rebuilding, Dion said, “The leader will be without any protection facing the Conservatives.”

He predicted the Tories will try to do to the next leader what they did to him and Ignatieff, define the person “in a very negative way,” as “an ugly, unsympathetic person, unable to be a leader, not a Canadian, willing to tax them like crazy.”

And he said Canadians will believe it unless the Liberal party is ready to counter the attacks.

“And for that we need greater organization, good fundraising, good communications in the social media and the traditional media.”

In particular, Dion said the party must be able to hit back in kind when the Tories spend millions on negative ads in prime time – something the Liberals could not afford when Dion and Ignatieff came under sustained fire.

“If they put (ads) in the Superbowl and we answer on Facebook … it’s not enough. You can’t compete and then, the election starts and people think they know you,” he said, speaking from bitter experience.

Under the party’s constitution, Liberals should choose a successor within five months of a leader’s resignation – that is, by October of this year. Few, if any, Liberals had the stomach to plunge immediately into a leadership contest so soon after the May 2 bloodbath.

Hence, at Saturday’s convention they amended the constitution to allow a delay for up to two years.

They also voted to delay the party’s biennial policy convention, which was supposed to be held by the end of this year, until Jan. 13-15, 2012.

Some Liberals supported holding a leadership vote no later than the fall of 2012. Jeff Jedras, who moved that proposal, argued that rebuilding and new leadership go hand in hand and the party must “walk and chew gum at the same time.”

One supporter of Jedras’s proposal maintained that leadership contests are divisive and shouldn’t be dragged out unnecessarily. Another said an earlier contest would give the new leader more time to become known by Canadians before the next election in four years.

But the overwhelming mood of the delegates was to put off the contest as long as possible. Fully 89 per cent ultimately supported the two-year delay.

Couples hold ‘Kiss and Tell’ event in support of gay rights in U.S.

TORONTO – Canadians took part in a smooch-in Saturday in support of gay marriage rights in the United States.

More than 1,100 people across North America – dozens of them Canadians – kissed outside Lush Cosmetic stores, the company said.

The “Kiss and Tell” event was part of the company’s two-week campaign to convince the U.S. government to change the marriage law.

Gay, straight, bisexual and transgendered people in Toronto, Ottawa, Vancouver, Edmonton, Montreal and Calgary kissed for the cause but turnout was small in Canadian cities.

Jesse Showers, 21, and Sean Rockwood, 24, were among 10 couples who locked lips outside the Lush Cosmetics store on Toronto’s Queen Street West after a dish of breath mints was passed around.

“It’s about time to kind of start sending a message to the U.S. government to really start doing marriage equality as a priority,” said Rockwood, a store employee.

“Being gay, marriage equality is obviously a big concern for me and if I do get married some day, I want it to be recognized wherever I go,” said Showers.

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Couples kissed at 11:38 a.m. local time – chosen because 1,138 is the number of federal benefits and responsibilities afforded married Americans but denied to gay and lesbian couples living in the U.S., said store spokeswoman Maram Aoudi.

Those include spousal hospital visitation privileges, family health-care coverage, the ability to file joint tax returns and the right to sponsor partners in immigration, said the company’s U.S. spokeswoman Brandi Halls.

Participants signed postcards that will be delivered to the U.S. Congress, urging it to overturn the 1996 Defence of Marriage Act. The law states a marriage is a union between a man and a woman.

Daphne McElroy, 18, kissed Sara Elizabeth Armstrong, 19. McElroy, who said she’s bisexual, said she went to the event to support gay rights. “I don’t think it’s fair that people are treated differently because of their sexual orientation,” she said.

At the Robson Street store in Vancouver, 23 couples kissed while eight couples puckered up in Victoria. There were smaller numbers in Montreal, Calgary and Edmonton, store officials said.

Ten couples kissed in Ottawa’s Byward market, far fewer than the 40 who had RSVP’d on Facebook, said assistant manager Laura Johnston. But about 50 people who walked by the store stopped and signed the postcards, she said.

“But a surprising number ignored us and didn’t take the time to sign them,” said Johnston.

Esks halftime show could be called a bust

Jeff Funnekotter, after the Edmonton Eskimos honoured last
weekend their cheerleaders from the past five decades, and they
performed at halftime: “The musical entertainment was provided by
the Tragically Hip Replacements.” . . . As I recall, the Eskimos
were the first CFL team to have NFL-styled cheerleaders. If not,
theirs always seemed to be the most mammerable . . . RJ Currie,
after the Edmonton Eskimos and Saskatchewan Roughriders played last
week before a record crowd of 62,517: “No wait; that was this year’s
Blue Jays attendance.” . . . Shovels are now banned, but I hear at
practices the Eskimos are allowing folding chairs . . . Three things
I’d like to see happen to Gary Bettman for ruining the National
Hockey League: 3. Have his office moved to Hamilton; 2. Be forced to
watch every Islanders game; 1. Live with Nancy Grace . . . Did I
just read David Letterman had affairs with Sarah Palin, Paul Shaffer
and Caster Semenya? . . . Janice Hough says many Americans just
don’t get the little nuances of hockey: “It was announced Rob Blake
will wear the ‘C’ as captain of the Sharks. Many San Jose fans
thought the ‘C’ stood for their grade in the playoffs.” . . . It is
illegal in Canada to use more than 25 pennies in a transaction,
according to Yahoo Travel. If this is true, how can CFL players cash
their cheques? . . . Paul McCallum was so upset with his demotion to
second-string kicker with the B.C. Lions, he had a load of manure
dumped on the driveway of Wally Buono’s next-door neighbour.

Cam Hutchinson